Ingredient Spotlight: Neroli & Orange Blossom
Asking me to name my favorite aromatic essence is a little like asking a parent to name their favorite child. They are all beloved, and each is special in its own way. Still, there are two essences I could not imagine life without: neroli essential oil and orange blossom absolute.
Neroli and orange blossom absolute are among the most captivating and widely used floral ingredients in perfumery. And as it turns out, both come from the same source — the flower of the bitter orange tree (citrus aurantium var. amara). What makes them two distinct essences is the different ways they are extracted from the blooms (more on this below).
Neroli and orange blossom absolute are revered by perfumers and perfumistas alike for their sublime aromas and indispensable uses in fragrance accords. Read on for their scent profiles …
Neroli essential oil is an ethereal, sweet white floral with a radiant and mesmerizing top note and slightly green, refreshing citrus back notes. In perfumery, neroli provides a fresh yet deeply seductive top-to-middle note.
A truly hypnotic and uplifting scent, neroli is considered to be an aphrodisiac. Legend has it that the hauntingly beautiful essence was named after Anne Marie Orsini, the Princess of Nerola, Italy, who in the 17th century used it to scent her gloves and bathwater.
Neroli is also useful in aromatherapy blends, where its soothing, elevating effect aids in promoting relaxation and relieving stress.
Orange blossom absolute, a middle note in perfumery, is a voluptuous white floral that's similar in character to neroli but is warmer, headier, more full-bodied. Its intoxicating scent is lush and sultry but at the same time fresh and green, with a long-lasting radiance that helps round out heart note accords in a perfume. It's a gorgeous note on its own as well, with a vibe that is equal parts light-hearted and sensual.
Orange blossom absolute has a beguiling indolic note — its rich, sweet aroma is laced with a slightly “dirty” or animalic undertone that humans tend to find irresistible. This narcotic indole note contrasts beautifully with the bright, clean citrus facets of orange blossom. Like neroli, orange blossom is considered an aphrodisiac.
Cultivated for the perfume industry in France, Italy, Morocco, Tunisia and Egypt, the bitter orange tree is a prolific multi-tasker. It yields neroli, which is obtained through steam distillation, and orange blossom absolute, obtained through solvent extraction. In addition, it produces three other essences, for a total of five distinct perfumery ingredients from one botanical source — a record unmatched by any other plant.
One of those essences is petitgrain absolute, which is solvent extracted from the leaves of the bitter orange tree. A fascinating middle note in perfumery, petitgrain absolute brings deep, fresh, green complexity to the heart of a fragrance.
Then there are petitgrain essential oil (steam-distilled from the leaves and twigs) and bitter orange essential oil (expeller-pressed from the orange peel). These bright yet sophisticated citrus oils are used as top notes in perfumery, and in aromatherapy blends for their refreshing, uplifting qualities.
Celebrated for centuries for their beauty and purity, orange blossoms hold a symbolic meaning in many cultures, often representing fertility, new beginnings and good fortune. In Mediterranean countries, for example, brides can be seen wearing orange blossom crowns to symbolize happiness and fertility. And in Persian cultures, orange blossoms are often used in weddings as a symbol of purity and eternal love.
CUSANI perfumes that contain neroli and/or orange blossom include Neroli Noir, Love Lavender, Sanctuary, Haute Bohème and No. 9. Enjoy! — Claudia