Exploring Base Notes in Natural Perfumery
One of the many things that distinguishes natural botanical perfumes from commercial synthetic fragrances is the fascinating aromatic evolution they go through, from the first spritz to the last lingering base notes. Unlike synthetic perfumes, which are more linear in character and often lack subtlety, botanical perfumes take you on a highly nuanced journey of scent, starting with the top notes of the fragrance.
Top notes are an invitation, the beguiling opening act of a perfume. Full of sparkle and intrigue, they set the stage for the fragrance’s character and story, and beckon you to follow along. Typically derived in botanical perfumery from citrus, spice or herbal plants, top notes are the most volatile essences in a composition, meaning they are the first scents to hit the nose, and the first to fade. This creates a vivid but rather fleeting impression — top notes last a mere five to fifteen minutes before they begin to give way to the heart of the fragrance.
Layered at the core of a fragrance are the middle (or "heart") notes, which comprise the body of the composition. Dramatic and opulent, middle notes are highly expressive aromas that range from warm florals and exotic fruity notes to herbaceous, gourmand and spicy essences. They make their presence known five to fifteen minutes into a fragrance's evolution, creating the emotional heart of the perfume that usually lasts two to three hours.
Then, as the middle notes start to wane, the deepest and most profound element of a fragrance begins to emerge: the base notes. In the depth, intensity and staying power of base note accords lies the foundation of every great perfume. Rich and complex, they anchor the fragrance and contribute its most indelible impression.
Base notes in natural perfumery are derived from woody, resinous, grassy and gourmand botanical materials. Characteristically warm and resonant, they add sensual, grounding and mystical effects to a fragrance. Base notes possess fixative properties that help extend the wear of a fragrance. Just as top notes are the most volatile essences in a composition and evaporate quickly, base notes are the least volatile essences — appearing last, unfolding slowly and lingering for hours.
At CUSANI, each of our Perfumes is densely layered with dozens of expertly blended base notes that evolve for many hours on the skin. The effect is powerfully evocative, long-lasting and luxuriant.
Here's a quick look at eleven of our favorite base notes (seen clockwise below, from bottom left):
LABDANUM (Cistus ladaniferus): Rich, smooth, deep, sweet balsamic aroma with a mild herbaceous backnote; powerful and highly tenacious. Extracted from the resin of the plant's leaves and flowers.
VETIVER (Vetiveria zizanioides): Deep, heavy, resinous, with earthy, woody, root-like notes and smoky-sweet undertones. Steam-distilled from the roots of the wild grass.
FRANKINCENSE (Boswellia carterii): Warm, balsamic, dry-woody, resinous, smooth, with peppery, lemony and pine-like notes. Extracted from the resin of the tree.
TONKA BEAN (Dipteryx odorata): Very rich, reminiscent of vanilla, caramel, honey, almonds and cinnamon, with a powdery-sweet aroma of hay, and soft herbal and tobacco undertones. Extracted from the seeds of the tree.
CEDARWOOD (Cedrus deodara): Dry-woody, balsamic, warm and sweet, with a slight camphoraceous top note and mellow undertones. Steam-distilled from the bark of the tree.
VANILLA (Vanilla planifolia): Very rich, sweet characteristic vanilla aroma with cocoa nuances, a faintly bitter undertone and a deep balsamic back note. Extracted from the fruit of the vine-like tree.
PATCHOULI (Pogostemon cablin): Earthy, sweet-herbaceous, deep, extremely rich, with spicy, floral and wine-like top notes and woody balsamic body notes. Steam-distilled from the leaves of the plant.
OAKMOSS (Evernia prunastri): Mysterious, fairy-like scent of dry forest, bark and piney top notes layered over smooth, rich notes of moss, wood and damp earth. Extracted from the lichen of the oak tree.
HAY (Foin coupe): Powerful, very sweet, diffusive, faintly herbaceous, reminiscent of freshly-cut hay, with fig-like backnotes. Extracted from the grassy plant.
SANDALWOOD (Santalum album): Soft, creamy, sweet-woody, very deep, smooth, mystical. Steam-distilled from the wood of the tree.
BENZOIN (Styrax benzoin): Very rich, extremely sweet, warm, powdery, balsamic, vanilla-like with a subtle cinnamon undertone. Extracted from the resinous tree gum.